November 4-7, 2023 | Kids ages 10 and 9
Sometimes you want to feel like you’ve traveled to Europe without actually crossing an ocean. Enter Montreal – our perfect solution for a long weekend that would give us that “foreign land” experience while keeping the drive time reasonable (well, mostly reasonable) from the Hudson Valley.
The Journey North: Friends, Borders, and Wrong Turns
Our Montreal adventure actually began in Plattsburgh, where we have dear friends who are professors at SUNY Plattsburgh. In one of those cosmic coincidences that make life interesting, they have twins born on the exact same day as our son – built-in buddies! We pulled the kids out of school a little early to arrive at a reasonable time for dinner.
The evening was perfectly low-key: a walk from their house to a local arcade bar where good burgers and wings kept the adults happy, while $40 worth of quarters kept the kids entertained for hours. Sometimes the simplest pleasures are the best.
From Plattsburgh, it was just a quick 45-minute to 1-hour drive to Montreal. As we left the border area, French signs began appearing, immediately giving us that “we’re somewhere else entirely” feeling we were craving.
Pro tip for future travelers: Don’t be like us and accidentally pull into a border patrol parking area. Finding someone to open the gate so you can escape is… awkward. But hey, smooth sailing otherwise!
Arrival in Montreal: Navigating the Maze
Where we stayed: Hotel Nelligan in Old Montreal (106, rue Saint-Paul Ouest). The valet parking was a godsend because let me tell you – Montreal’s maze of one-way streets will take you on a scenic tour of half the city just to reach your destination. Once we handed over those keys, we could forget about the car entirely.
Day One: Old Montreal Exploration and Mozart
Montreal’s Old Town is wonderfully walkable, and our hotel was perfectly central. We started with a stroll to see some of the oldest houses in Montreal on Rue St-Louis, passing City Hall and taking different routes to see more of the historic district.
Lunch was at a plush café on Rue Notre-Dame (the memory’s a bit fuzzy on the exact name, but the ambiance was lovely). We peeked into Notre-Dame Basilica during the day, knowing we’d be back that evening.
Montreal Science Centre: Learning and IMAX Adventures
We headed down to the waterfront where the Montreal Science Centre sits. The interactive exhibits were genuinely fascinating – we all learned something new during our 3-hour visit. The 3D IMAX movie about flight was incredible, and they had a space station film to prep us for the virtual reality experience we’d planned for the next day. The perspective shots from space were wonderfully unsettling in the best way.
The Ferris Wheel Experience
At the Old Port, we spotted La Grande Roue de Montréal – the giant ferris wheel that’s become a Montreal landmark. I’m a firm believer that ferris wheels help you navigate new cities (though your mileage may vary on this theory). We got our own enclosed car, and while some of us were definitely nervous about the height, the bird’s-eye view of Montreal was worth the mild terror.
Mozart and Magnificent Architecture
That evening, we had tickets for “REQUIEM de Mozart” performed by Société philharmonique du Nouveau Monde at the stunning Basilique Notre-Dame de Montréal. The basilica itself is absolutely breathtaking – the architecture alone is worth the visit.
The concert was beautiful and the musicians were incredibly talented, but full transparency: it ran quite long, and some of our group (myself included) got a bit restless. Sometimes culture and kids don’t perfectly align, and that’s okay! The atmosphere definitely added to the performance.
Dinner spot: We think we ate at Stash Café that first night – fantastic Polish food that hit the spot after a full day of exploring.
Day Two: More Exploration and The Great Vomit Incident
Continental breakfast at the hotel (eaten in shifts – early risers and late risers don’t always sync up) fueled us for more Old Town exploration and shopping. We made our way back to the waterfront park, which offers fantastic views of the city and the famous Habitat 67 – the iconic residential building designed by Moshe Safdie for Expo 67. Jennifer was particularly excited to see this architectural landmark in person.
The Space Station Experience (Or: When Kids Happen)
Our friends from Plattsburgh were driving up to join us for the Space Explorers: The Infinite – an immersive virtual International Space Station experience. Six of them, four of us, all ready for what promised to be an amazing adventure.
We met at the hotel, caught up, then headed to a nearby burger and pizza place for pre-experience fuel. No reservations needed, perfect for our large group.
And then… it happened.
As we were heading back to the hotel room because one of the kids wasn’t feeling great, he stepped off the elevator and proceeded to projectile vomit all over the elevator landing. Oh my gosh, it happened again! (Apparently this is a recurring theme in our family travels.)
Poor housekeeping had to deal with the mess – we felt terrible but were secretly relieved we didn’t have to clean it up ourselves. We made sure to leave an extra generous tip on checkout.
I stayed with our sick kiddo while Jennifer and our other son hung out with our friends in the lobby. When it was time for the Space Station experience, we asked if he felt up to it. He bravely said yes, so we all walked to the Old Port.
We got fitted with our VR headsets and entered the portal… only to have our sick child grab me urgently saying he had to leave immediately. Emergency exit time! Staff kindly helped us navigate the back way out while the others continued with the experience.
We rushed back to the hotel, but fortunately, no second incident occurred. Jennifer and our other son stayed for the full experience and reported it was absolutely incredible – definitely recommended if you can avoid the stomach bug timing!
Day Three: Mile End Discovery
After another shift-style breakfast, we took a taxi to Mile End for some neighborhood exploration. This area has a completely different vibe from Old Montreal – more residential, artsy, and full of vintage shops.
Hidden Gems and Bagel Education
We discovered a tiny storefront that reminded us of the Soup Nazi from Seinfeld – just a little window operation that looked absolutely amazing. We didn’t buy anything since we were on foot, but later research showed it had incredible reviews. Sometimes the best discoveries are the ones that get away!
Must-visit shops in Mile End:
- Drawn & Quarterly (176 Rue Bernard Ouest): A fantastic graphic novel and book store where the kids found new books from series they were following
- ST-VIATEUR BAGEL – MILE END (158 Saint Viateur St. West): Here’s the thing about Montreal bagels – they’re completely different from NYC bagels, so don’t go in with New York expectations. But they’re delicious in their own right, with an interesting H&H Bagel vibe and unique varieties
Bonus discovery: Drogheria Fine (68 av. Fairmount O) – open every day for gnocchi 11 AM – 9 PM. We didn’t eat there, but it looked amazing!
Reunion with a Friend
We Ubered back to the hotel to meet my friend Alicia, who I knew from my visual effects days. She had moved to Montreal to work on VFX for film and TV, but timing is everything in that industry – they had just removed tax incentives for post-production work, and most companies had moved out. Her projects had ended, but the silver lining was she landed work in Vancouver and was moving there with her husband. (Looks like we’ll need to plan a Vancouver trip!)
We went to Wolf & Workman Pub, conveniently located right by our hotel and apparently a regular hangout spot for VFX folks after work. Pubs consistently deliver solid, hearty food, and this place was no exception. It was wonderful catching up with an old friend over good food and drinks.
Day Four: Expo Area Adventures
Check-out day meant retrieving our car and heading to the Expo area for our final Montreal experiences. The drive to the Insectarium was easy, though the parking lot situation was less than fun.
Espace pour la vie: Two Amazing Experiences
The Insectarium was absolutely fantastic. They have incredible insect experiences and a room with the most beautiful butterfly and insect collection we’ve ever seen. The live zone where you walk among butterflies and insects was magical.
Next stop: Montreal Biosphere on Saint Helen’s Island in Parc Jean-Drapeau. This unique attraction houses five different ecosystems under one roof – essentially a zoo where you walk among birds and animals in their recreated natural habitats. We thoroughly enjoyed this immersive experience.
After our Biosphere visit, it was time to head back to the car and make the journey south to the Hudson Valley, heads full of memories and hearts full of appreciation for Montreal’s unique charm.
The Verdict: Montreal with Kids
Montreal delivered exactly what we hoped for – that European feel without crossing an ocean. The combination of French signage, incredible architecture, walkable neighborhoods, and unique cultural experiences made it feel like a proper international adventure.
What worked brilliantly:
- Hotel Nelligan’s central location and valet parking
- The walkability of Old Montreal
- Mix of cultural experiences (Mozart concert) and family-friendly attractions (Science Centre, Ferris wheel)
- Mile End’s neighborhood charm and shopping
- Espace pour la vie complex for nature lovers
What we learned:
- Montreal bagels ≠ NYC bagels (and that’s okay!)
- Always pack motion sickness remedies for kids
- VR experiences are amazing when timing works out
- Even travel mishaps become great stories
- French signage really does make everything feel more exotic
For other families planning a Montreal weekend:
- The 5-hour drive from the Hudson Valley is totally manageable
- Plan for those one-way streets if you’re driving in the city
- Book experiences in advance (especially the Space Station VR)
- Leave flexibility in your schedule for unexpected discoveries
- Embrace the mishaps – they make the best stories later!
Montreal proved that you don’t need to cross an ocean to feel like you’ve traveled somewhere completely different. Plus, the kids got to practice their very limited French, we all learned something new, and we created memories that will last a lifetime – vomit incidents and all.
Have you been to Montreal with kids? We’d love to hear about your experiences in the comments below!
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