A Scandinavian Adventure: When Grandparents Choose Sweden and Norway Delivers Magic

When we asked Nonna and Grandpa Charles where they wanted to go for their big trip, we secretly hoped they’d pick somewhere warm. The kids had been lobbying hard for Italy or Japan, but Charles’s Swedish heritage won out – Sweden it was, with Norway’s fjords as the irresistible bonus. What followed was a Memorial Day week that taught us just as much about ourselves as it did about Scandinavia.

The Reality Check Nobody Warned Us About

Let’s be honest: we thought we were prepared for expensive after Iceland, but Scandinavia laughed at our budget. When a basic family dinner costs $200 and you’re mentally calculating whether that cinnamon bun is worth $8, you realize you’re not in Kansas anymore. But here’s what the guidebooks don’t tell you – it’s worth every overpriced krona.

Finding hotels that could actually accommodate our traveling circus of six was like solving a Rubik’s cube blindfolded. Even booking months ahead, we ended up with creative sleeping arrangements and rooms that technically fit us but felt like playing Tetris with humans. The Radisson Collection Strand Hotel in Stockholm promised a king bed but delivered a queen, leading to some very cozy nights with three people sharing what was clearly meant for two.

Stockholm: Where Medieval Meets Modern (and Cinnamon Buns Reign Supreme)

Stockholm we thought would be walkable, especially since most things were centrally located and right around our hotel – until we realized that “walkable” with two grandparents in their 70s and 80s meant something entirely different on this trip. We had a vehicle on the other 2 trips and we didn’t realize the difference that made. So it was walkable just at a much slower pace with many more stops. Our legs actually hurt from that gait and pace. The city’s islands and bridges created beautiful views but also unexpected distances that had us constantly recalculating routes.

Our first morning, I stumbled upon Stora Bageriet behind construction scaffolding near our hotel. What started as a desperate search for coffee became our daily ritual. These weren’t the sugary, iced American cinnamon buns the kids expected – Swedish kanelbullar are perfection with cardamom and just the right amount of sweetness. We literally planned our days around bakery stops, and I’m not even embarrassed about it.

The Vasa Museum was impressive for all of us as the building held a mostly original massive ship that sank on its maiden voyage 400 years ago. All of us enjoyed the fact that the ship had been preserved so well and the story it had to tell, largely of poor engineering but also the way boats should not be built and at least how they were constructed. It was connecting with history in a way that doesn’t happen in textbooks.

Gamla Stan’s narrow alleys turned into a treasure hunt when the kids became obsessed with finding Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, Stockholm’s narrowest street. What could have been a quick photo stop became an hour of exploration as they discovered hidden courtyards and medieval details that adults walk right past.

Oslo: Where Midnight Feels Like Afternoon

The high-speed train to Oslo gave us our first taste of Scandinavia’s endless May daylight. Arriving at midnight to find the city still bathed in twilight blew the kids’ minds. Henry kept checking his watch, convinced something was wrong, while Elias declared he never wanted to go to bed again.

Our Oslo hotel (Att Stays) was a revelation – more apartment than hotel, with phone-controlled locks that gave us constant anxiety as it was a mystery what actually got them to open but actual space to spread out. The kids claimed the bunk beds like they’d won the lottery, and having a separate bathroom was a luxury we hadn’t realized we needed.

The custard-filled Norwegian cinnamon buns at W.B. Samson became my morning pilgrimage. While everyone else slept, I’d venture out in the misty morning quiet, navigating by memory since my phone had no data. These solo bakery runs became unexpected meditation moments in our packed schedule.

When rain derailed our walking plans, we discovered the hop-on, hop-off bus – which sounds touristy but saved our sanity. The kids initially protested (“We’re not those people!”) but ended up loving the upper deck views, even when three of the stops were cruise ship passenger pickups that made us feel like we were being herded.

Akershus Fortress became Elias’s favorite castle ever, not for its views but for the ghost stories on the audio tour. Watching our skeptical pre-teen get completely absorbed in medieval Norwegian history and playing medieval knight in the gift shop reminded us why we travel with them.

Norwegian Fjords: The Day Everything Changed

The chaos at Myrdal station was like nothing we’d experienced – hundreds of tourists swarming a small platform, no assigned seats, and our group of six trying to stay together while everyone pushed past with massive suitcases. Jennifer’s strategic positioning and gentle-but-firm grandparent advocacy got us on the train, but it was our first real “travel with a large group” reality check.

Then came the Flam Zipline, and suddenly our trip transformed from sightseeing to adventure. Jennifer was terrified but couldn’t show it when Henry had his “I can’t do this” moment. Watching her put on a brave face while clearly wanting to run was both hilarious and touching. But the real magic wasn’t the zipline – it was the mountain bike ride down to Flam.

That bike ride became the trip’s defining moment. We wound down mountain roads with waterfalls cascading beside us, the railway tracks crossing our path multiple times, and views that made the train’s tunnel-heavy journey seem like a missed opportunity. Even out-of-shape me managed the gentle uphills, and the kids’ pure joy at the freedom of coasting down those mountain roads was infectious.

Our little house in Aurland felt like a Norwegian fairy tale – right on the fjord with our own sauna dock. The kids played cards on the deck while massive mountains surrounded us, and for the first time all trip, nobody asked “What are we doing next?” The Norwegian supermarket’s giant avocados became a family inside joke, and sharing local beer on the deck while the kids discovered Norwegian chocolate felt like the vacation we’d been trying to have all along.

The Nærøyfjord cruise from Flam to Gudvangen was one of the highlights of the trip, with majestic views the whole way and an even more picturesque landscape around each bend.

Bergen: Rain, Vikings, and Dire Straits at 11 PM

Bergen lived up to its rainy reputation, but the colorful Bryggen buildings looked even more magical in the mist. Our hotel’s harbor location was perfect for walking to everything but came with unexpected entertainment – including a Norwegian festival that culminated in someone blasting Dire Straits so loud at 11 PM that we thought the speakers were in our room.

The Fløibanen funicular became Elias’s favorite – not for the views but for the free-roaming goats at the top. Watching him try to befriend Norwegian mountain goats while Henry declared the playground “actually pretty cool for a 7th grader” reminded us that travel magic often happens in the unplanned moments.

The fjord cruise from Bergen felt anticlimactic after our dramatic Nærøyfjord experience. It was comfortable and informative, but we kept comparing it to the waterfalls and steep cliffs we’d seen from Flam. Sometimes the first experience really is the best one.

What We Learned (The Hard Way)

The international data plan oversight was our biggest mistake. Watching me try to call taxis while Jennifer attempted to navigate without internet, all while grandparents waited patiently and kids complained about being lost, taught us that some conveniences are worth the cost.

Traveling with six people in this way reminded us that flexibility isn’t just helpful – it’s essential. Our taxi-splitting strategies, our patient walking pace, and our willingness to change plans when rain hit made the difference between a good trip and a great one.

The Norwegian approach to work-life balance showed up everywhere – from the 11:30 PM sunsets that kept everyone energized to the quality over quantity mentality in their bakeries. We learned to slow down and appreciate rather than rush to check things off a list.

The Verdict: Worth Every Expensive Krona

This trip created the kind of family memories that get better with retelling. Watching Henry overcome his zipline fear, seeing the fjord up close on the cruise, and discovering that even grandparents in their 80s can handle adjusted adventure travel reminded us why we prioritize these experiences.

Would we do it again? Absolutely. Would we plan differently? Definitely – with data plans, more flexible transportation, and realistic expectations about walking distances. But that’s what makes these trips adventures rather than just vacations.

The combination of Stockholm’s maritime charm, Oslo’s modern culture, and Norway’s raw natural beauty created a trip that satisfied everyone from our 5th grader to our 80-something grandparents. And yes, we’re still talking about those cinnamon buns.

Personal Memories We’ll Never Forget

Elias had several episodes of sleepwalking and talking, possibly because of the jet lag. One night he woke up and got up to ask me to help him move the table (we had to switch the furniture around a bit earlier to make our luggage accessible). A few other times he woke me up to ask me random questions and then was like “never mind.” It was like he was awake but did not remember the next day.

Other unforgettable moments: The kids playing cards with their grandparents, the amazing meals, how clean and well-maintained everything was (makes the US seem like a third-world country), the friendliness of the people, the beautiful views, and of course the scooters and baked goods.

Travel Warnings for Your Scandinavia Trip

A Flam Cruise Ship Warning

When we returned to Flam in the morning, a massive cruise ship had docked overnight. The enormous vessel looked completely out of place in the tiny village, blocking the majestic fjord views and disgorging approximately 3,000 passengers into a town of just 300 residents.

Our taxi driver shared that these ships regularly overwhelm the community, and locals would prefer they stay away—a sentiment we completely understood after witnessing the chaos firsthand. The cruise passengers have reserved sections on the famous Flam Railway, but this only adds to the crowding, especially at the scenic overlooks at the top where crowd management can break down.

Just because cruise ships can dock in Flam doesn’t mean they should. If you’re planning a visit, consider checking cruise schedules in advance to avoid the crowds and preserve the serene fjord experience this special place was meant to offer.

Bergen Restaurant Advisory: Bryggen Tracteursted

We had dinner at Bryggen Tracteursted in Bergen, which serves Norwegian fare with a modern twist. While the restaurant has its merits, we weren’t prepared for the fact that most dishes are served cold—a detail that wasn’t clearly communicated when we ordered.

This led to some disappointment, as we would have made entirely different menu choices had we understood the restaurant’s approach. If you decide to dine here, don’t hesitate to ask specific questions about temperature and preparation methods to ensure the experience matches your expectations.

Detailed 10-Day Itinerary with Booking Links

Day 1: Arrival in Stockholm

Flight: Newark to Stockholm (SAS) Accommodation: Radisson Collection Strand Hotel Activities: Flexible arrival day, explore Gamla Stan (Old Town)

Visit the Great Church and Nobel Museum
Walk medieval streets: Västerlånggatan and Österlånggatan
Find Stockholm’s narrowest alley (Mårten Trotzigs Gränd)
Look for medieval architectural details: hoisting beams, rune stones, restored facades

Dining:

Lunch at Kaffekoppen, Chokladkoppen, or Café Schweizer in Gamla Stan
Dinner: Sten Sture (traditional Swedish cuisine)

Day 2: Stockholm Museums and Djurgården

Morning: Skansen Open-Air Museum Lunch: Arturs Kafe or pack lunch Afternoon: Vasa Museum (don’t miss this!)Optional: ABBA Museum, Nordiska Museet Evening: Rosendals Garden bakery at the Farm Shop for Swedish pastries Dinner: Barrels Burgers for family-friendly fare

Day 3: Stockholm Royal Experience

Morning: Boat to Drottningholm Palace (Sweden’s Versailles)

Depart Klara Mälarstrand 11:10 AM Guided tours: Palace and Palace Theater (12:15 or 13:15) Return boat:2:00 PM arrival back in Stockholm Afternoon: Stockholm City Hall (climb the tower for views) Evening:Dinner at Under Kastanjen in Gamla Stan

Day 4: Stockholm to Oslo

Morning: Explore Södermalm district

Vintage shopping: Brandstationen Store & Studio, Stockholm Stadsmission, MJ Retro
Walk down Hornsgatan
Taxi to the Photography Museum and back to Hotel Afternoon: Hotel checkout Evening: High-speed train to Oslo (6:10 PM departure, arrives midnight) Accommodation: Att Stays – apartment-style accommodations with space to spread out Grab dinner: For the train journey

Note: We left for the train station at 8:30 AM because it takes our large group so long to get anywhere with luggage and coordinating six people.

Day 5: Oslo Exploration

Morning: Walk Karl Johan’s Gate to Royal Palace

See Norwegian Parliament (Stortinget) and National Theatre Breakfast options: Grand Café (sit-down) or W.B. Samson bakery (famous for Skolebrød – custard and coconut topped sweet rolls) Mid-morning: Royal Palace of Oslo (Slottet) Late morning: Vigeland Park (free sculpture park) Lunch: Anne På Landet (in the park)Afternoon: Norwegian Museum of Cultural History OR National Museum/Munch Museum Dinner: Jarmann Gastropub Evening: Oslo Opera House (walk on the roof!)

Day 6: Oslo to Flam (Norway in a Nutshell Begins)

Early morning: Meet luggage porter service (optional convenience) Breakfast: Local café Train: Oslo to Myrdal (departure time varies – check VY for current schedules) Transfer: Flam Railway from Myrdal to Flam Afternoon:Explore Flam, taxi to Aurland Accommodation: Fjord Resort Aurland Guesthouse or similar fjordside lodgingDinner: Vangsgaarden Gjestgiveri (walkable from guesthouse)

Booking Links:

Norway in a Nutshell official: Fjord Tours
Alternative booking: Nordic Visitor
Individual train tickets: VY or Entur

Day 7: The Ultimate Adventure Day

Group Split Option:

Less adventurous: Stay in Aurland, lunch in Flam, meet group at 1:00 PM
Adventure seekers: Early train to Vatnahalsen for zip line and bike ride

Full Adventure Day: Breakfast: Marianne Bakery & Café in Aurland Morning: Flam Railway to Vatnahalsen (check Flam Railway for schedules) Adventure: Flam Zip Line – Scandinavia’s longest zipline at 1,381 meters Highlight:Mountain bike ride down to Flam (absolutely magical) Lunch: Grab sandwiches in Flam for the journey Afternoon:Nærøyfjord cruise Flam to Gudvangen (times vary seasonally) Travel: Bus Gudvangen to Voss, train Voss to BergenEvening: Arrive Bergen, walk to hotel

Adventure Booking Links:

Zipline + Bike combo: Fjord Tours Package
Zipline official: Flam Zipline
Alternative booking: Norway’s Best

Day 8: Bergen Peninsula Walk

Morning: Walk Nordnes Peninsula

Knøsesmauet: Picturesque historic street
Cort Piil-smauet: Medieval street with hilltop square
Ytre Markeveien: Quiet residential area
Nordnesparken: Park with Seattle totem pole donation
Strandgaten: Boutique and café street
End with iconic Bryggen Harbor views Lunch: Dromedar Kaffebar or Søstrene Hagelin (famous for traditional fish soup) Afternoon: Fløibanen Funicular to Mount Fløyen
Playground and free-roaming goats at the top
Hiking trails if time permits Dinner: Bryggen Tracteursted

Day 9: Bergen History and Fjords

Morning: Explore Bryggen UNESCO World Heritage site

Rosenkrantz Tower
Bryggen Museum (world’s largest rune stick collection)
St Mary’s Church and medieval ruins
Colorful wooden buildings from 1700s
Medieval wine cellar (now under parking garage)
Schøtstuene (Hanseatic assembly rooms) Lunch: Fish Market (perfect for casual seafood lunch)
Try Vafleriet for Norwegian ice cream flavors (brunost or cloudberry) Afternoon: Mostraumen Fjord Cruise (2:00-5:30 PM from Zachariasbryggen) Dinner: Bryggeloftet

Booking: Visit Bergen Fjord Tours

Day 10: Departure

Morning flights: Bergen to Oslo (8:30 AM), Oslo to Newark (11:00 AM) Note: Allow extra time for connections

Essential Booking Tips and Links

Major Booking Platforms

Norway in a Nutshell: Official Fjord Tours website offers complete package planning – Book here
Train tickets: VY (Norwegian Railway) or Entur
Adventure activities: Norway’s Best
Alternative packages: Nordic Visitor offers 24/7 support throughout your trip

Accommodation Booking

Stockholm: Radisson Collection Strand Hotel
Oslo: Att Stays – apartment-style accommodations with phone-controlled locks
Aurland: Search for fjordside guesthouses through Booking.com or Airbnb
Bergen: Harbor-location hotels for walkability

Important Notes

Book accommodations early – family rooms are limited and expensive
Reserve train seats – especially important for groups of 6
Pre-book activities – zip line, museum tickets, and boat tours fill up
Budget preparation – meals, hotels, and transport are all expensive
Get international data plan – essential for navigation and coordination

Don’t Miss vs. Could Skip

Absolute Must-Do

Cinnamon buns at every opportunity (Swedish kanelbullar and Norwegian skolebrød)
Vasa Museum in Stockholm
Flam zip line – Scandinavia’s longest with a span of 1,381 metres and bike adventure
Nærøyfjord cruise (the UNESCO World Heritage fjord)
Walking on Oslo Opera House roof
Skansen Open-Air Museum